Liberty Trike Helpful Videos

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey Bill, here from Electric Bike Technologies, and today I’m going to be walking you through the assembly of a brand new Liberty Trike. So before we get into that make sure to subscribe to our channel below and that way you'll get notifications anytime, we upload any new helpful videos, and as always thanks for your business and being part of the Liberty Trike community. You can also see our videos on LibertyTrike.com under the helpful videos tab.

Before we go ahead with the unboxing, the first thing, I want to show you is the Thank You card that comes with every Liberty Trike. This Thank You card has two functions; one it shows you our customer how much we appreciate your business, and two if you flip it over you find directions on how to use your QR reader on your phone to find your PDF manual online and then you can save your manual to your device and print it if you want to. You can also find the manual by going to LibertyTrike.com and find the manual section under the support tab all of our documentation is broken down here and are in the form of downloadable PDF files.

Now when you get your Liberty Trike it's going to come via UPS in a box that looks just like this, so you're going to want to make sure to not throw that box away, for at least the first three weeks of owning the trike. Unboxing takes a few minutes, so I’m just going to do that and we're going to pick right back up now that we have our manual pulled up as PDF on our mobile phone or device.

The next thing to do is just go through the components and see what we got. Included in every Liberty Trike box, you're going to find a rear end with the battery already installed, the front end with the handlebar connected via the brake line, your seat, and seatpost, the rear basket, and finally small box with your charger and keys usually the thank you card and manual are taped to this box.

All right now that our components are laid out the thing, I want to do next is start building the trike. So the first step, I’m going to take is to attach the front end to the rear end and what you do is you just line up both sides you get it in on a hinge because this is a folding trike and then if you look down in here, you'll see that there is a shaft and that's waiting for this guy, which is the quick-release pin. I’m going to put the quick-release pin down through the shaft, work it in and then just make sure you're aligned as you push that all the way through the bottom. Then I’m going to take this quick-release latch, right here get this guy in there, tighten it down a little bit and now it's tightened down completely.

Now that your frame is in one piece the next step you're going to want to do is to insert your handlebars down into the shaft. So before we do that you, just want to make sure that your quick-release latches is just a little loose so you can get your handlebars down into the shaft and work them in. As you do this, you want to make sure that your front tire is as straight as possible because you want to make sure those align properly. And then you get it to comfortable seating, tighten this down a bit and then just close the quick-release latch. Now when you insert your handlebars you just want to make sure that you're not bending or stretching your brake cable in any way. You want this to be going off the left-hand side and just down into the caliper.

Moving on the next step is your seatpost and your seatpost is pretty much the same exact process as your front handlebars. You just have your seatpost here and then a shaft that it's going to be inserted into you just want to make sure that your quick-release latch on here is loose as well, while you insert this. You also want to pay attention to the minimum insertion point and this will show you exactly where you need to have the seat down past a certain point. So I’m just going to work this in here and that seems like a comfortable position for me. So I’m just going to tighten this down a little bit and then fully close it off. Now that your Liberty Trike is in this stage, the next thing we want to do is just insert all your connection points for your electrical components together and make sure everything is working before we add the basket onto the rear.

So the first connection point you're going to come across is what's called the 3-to-1 cable up in front on the handlebars and that's going to attach here to the controller. So, if you get down in here you can see that we have two arrows right here and you're going to see arrows on all the connection points, you just want to make sure that these align perfectly and want to make sure the arrows are pretty much touching. The second connection point you're going to come across as the 2-prong male to the 2-prong female and this is going to connect your controller to your battery wiring harness and I’m just going to look on here same deal it's going to have two arrows you want to make sure this is all in all the way and that's going to be your second connection point. The third connection point you're going to see is what's called an IEC 3-prong and you're going to just insert this into the battery that should already be installed in the rear of the trike and that just snaps right in. Now that we have all of our connection points connected the next thing we want to do is just check to make sure the battery is on, now while I have you here, I just want to go over some specs of the battery this is a 36-volt 8 amp hour battery and it should ship in the frame when it comes via UPS. To charge the battery, you're just going to flip up the handle, and if you see the charging port is right over here on the right-hand side of the battery. Being that it's a 36-volt 8 amp battery your range should be somewhere around 8 to 16 miles on a single charge.

You can charge the battery on the trike or you can take it out to take it out we need these which are the keys to your Liberty Trike battery. Now your Liberty Trike battery is going to have three different key positions. The first is all the way to the left meaning that your battery is unlocked and can be taken out of the aluminum battery box and battery plate at any time. The middle position is going to lock your Liberty Trike battery in place and you can actually take your key out while it's doing that way the battery is not on and drawing power however, it is locked in place with a little pin that slides out of the bottom of the battery into the battery plate. The last position is fully on and when your Liberty Trike key is in that position, that means that you're drawing power and that you can start up the trike.

With your connection points installed and your battery key in the right position, we're going to just go ahead and test to make sure that our system turns on. All right now, to turn on the Liberty Trike what we're going to do is hold down the "i" button over here on the push pad and that'll bring up your Liberty Trike display. Now on the Liberty Trike display, there's a few things to note the zero right here is your miles per hour, and the five in this top right corner is your speed setting, that'll go somewhere between zero which gives you no power at all when you hit the throttle up to five which will be your top speed which can get up to 12 mph and if you hit this "i" button on the push pad you can see that you have a few options for the lower half of the screen. Odometer, your trip, ride time, you can actually time yourself while riding individual rides, goes back to odometer max speed, average speed, and that'll just come full circle, and when you look over here on the push pad you're going to see four separate buttons your plus and your minus will toggle through your individual settings and your speed your "i" will be how you turn on the device on and off and also how you get through your settings and then the fourth button is a small walk button over here and now when holding in this walk button you'd be able to ride your Liberty Trike at a low speed that should be a typical walking speed and then to turn it off you just hold it down one more time. So we can see that our Liberty Trike has powered on all the connections are good the battery is good and everything looks like we're ready to ride.

Now the last thing on the trike, that I want to go over is optional and that is your rear Liberty Trike basket that comes with every Liberty Trike that we send out. So to install this guy, all you have to do is, line him up with the holes that are on the top of the aluminum battery box and you can see a thread going down and I see that everything's good in there I’m just going to take a wing nut, which comes in your hardware and I’m just going to screw that into place and take the second one and screw that into place as well and you may not notice but there are some washers that get fed through the wing nuts so there should be a washer in between the basket and the wing nut and I’m just going to tighten that down.

All right now, it seems that our trike is fully assembled the frame is in one piece the handlebars have been installed the seatpost has been installed and the rear basket has been installed the only thing to do now is test it out.

[Upbeat Music]

All right guys that has been our Liberty Trike assembly video. Thank you so much for watching, if you have any questions comments or concerns you can always reach us at our 800 number or any of our contact information at libertytrike.com. Until then, ride on!

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey everybody, Jason here from Electric Bike Technologies. Making this video for you today, just to go over charging of your Liberty Trike battery. Give you some quick tips and just you know make this is straightforward for you. So here, we have the Liberty Trike battery 36v 8Ah battery, that comes with your Liberty Trike, and this is the charger that comes with your Liberty Trike as well.

So, to charge your Liberty Trike battery, you can plug this in goes into a normal us standard wall socket 120 volts input, and on the other side of this, you have a connector here. This is called an RCA type connector, now this plugs into your battery here, so in the back of this battery. If you flip the handle which allows you to pull this out of your trike, you're going to see a port and so you just plug that right into your port right there now you can charge this on or off the bike. I'd suggest turning the battery off, I don't think it really matters but anyway that's how you're going to charge it.

Physically this charger has a couple of indicators, it has an indicator light here and, on the back, on the label, you'll see what those indicating lights mean. So, if it's blinking green it's going to be, you know, it's not sensing the battery or it's not plugged into the battery, yet if it's charging it's going to be red, and if it's full it's going to be green.

Okay, so very simple that's in your manual as well so let's talk about you know best practices for charging your battery. So, you want to charge your battery kind of like you charge a cell phone and there's only two things that will hurt this battery so let me tell you the two things not to do. Number one, you don't want to run this battery down to zero and then park it and leave it. Okay, you don't want to let it sit empty for long periods of time, that's like the battery cells would dry out and that's not a good place to be. It needs to have some energy in it, so you never want to do that and leave it dry for long periods of time. On the other end of that, you never want to put this charger on this battery and just leave it on for days or weeks at a time. Okay, so you don't want to leave it on indefinitely that would also hurt the battery's health over time. If you've you know some people will do that with a laptop, actually, if you ever had that experience where you use a laptop as a desktop same kind of battery and if you leave it plugged in all the time and it's on all the time eventually, if you go to take that laptop and you want it, you'll find that the battery capacity has
diminished a lot and that battery will run down. So, for the health of the battery, don't leave this sit dry, and don't overcharge it leaving the charger on indefinitely.

Now, I want to tell you this question always comes up, you know, "can I go out for a ride and ride it a couple of miles, and then you know do I have to charge it right away?" There's no memory effect in a lithium-ion battery like this so yeah you can go out and spend half the pack right and then do it again the next day and then charge on day three something like that. That's not a problem for partial and charging this on a partial
really, you know people say well does that count for a life cycle? There's only a certain amount of lifecycles the answer is no. I mean it all kind of mashes in together and I really wouldn't worry about it on that level. So, as a general rule, charge when you're done riding, charge to full and then remove the charger from the battery and unplug the charger from the wall.

As well now, on to that, there's a special situation here and it has to do with the way that batteries are made and the makeup. In here, there's a bunch of little cells, they look like double “A” batteries. Now here's what I want to talk about it's called a "Maintenance Charge", or a "Balancing Charge" and you should do this maybe, every couple of weeks. Once every couple of weeks and what it is you're going to charge the battery to full. You're going to see the green light come on and you're going to leave it on, there at least, for let's say another 3 hours. The reason for this is that every cell in here has to be charged to full and that's going to take a little time. I like to use the analogy of a champagne tower. If you have champagne glasses stacked up and you're pouring the champagne in, you pour it in that top glass and it overflows, right, you have to keep pouring and some will overflow before all of them get a chance to get full – a lithium-ion battery is like this. It’s only as good as its weakest cell. So, I hope that makes sense you have to balance, you have to just make sure that every one of these little cells that make up this pack are full now. I want to say something important, we used to say that this, you know you could do this overnight or anything like that, a lot of people aren't doing that anymore because when you're charging lithium-ion, you know for all kinds of reasons, people want you to be at least near the pack. Okay, that's the safest way to do it really is to pick a time when you can be around. You plug this in, it gets to full and then you got 3 more hours, where you know, at least you're awake, you're in the house and you know just in case, I mean on the really off chance, you know, the industry is growing, so fast and it's and it's really important so not overnight but an extended charge. Once every couple of weeks is really what we would recommend.

That's pretty much it, for the battery, I mean unplug everything when it's done. You know have fun with it, that's it we're wrapping up. I hope these tips, help you understand batteries. Really, not that complicated, you have any other questions, you contact us, thanks.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Disconnect the battery like we do to separate the trike. We're going to take this stand and we're going to put it right up under here and then I'm just going to gently roll the trike forward. See that goes right in and
it's going to be the perfect height, all right. When this is done it goes right behind on that back half of the frame.

Now, I'm going to leave the brake off on the front half of the trike, I'm going to hold the front half of the trike. I'm going to loosen the quick-release and then I'm going to move this a little bit, so it's a little bit folded, right my stand is holding the back half in place and I'm going to put my hand underneath a little bit get that shimmy and I'm going to pull that pin. Very easy to pull out and you can see this is still even together without the pin. I'm going to move it away, just a little bit and there we go it's separated. Now, I'm free to work with the front while the stand is holding the back.

Okay now to go back together, again I don't have my brake on I'm going to maneuver down my front half, and right away, I'm going to be able to get there because it's the perfect height. I'm going to put my pin in. I'm going to start to push down, I'm going to do my shimmy, I'm going to come in here and push it in, okay. Then I'm going to go back, I'm going to fold and then I'm going to close it up and that stand gives me a lot of help. Now from there, I can roll back, I can take my standout. I can put my battery back together, right, and there you go.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey guys, Jason here, from Electric Bike Technologies. We got a Liberty Trike here and we're going to do something–we're going to call Helpful Shorts. These are short little videos, to help people with particular problems. They're going to be very quick and to the point.

Can anybody see what's wrong here, in this very first Helpful Short, anybody? I know a lot of people, already are seeing it. So, this wheel has been assembled backwards by mistake. You know because the fender is coming out in the front, and it really should be back here, and the handlebars look straight right and that's not too hard to do if you don't watch the video or if you just make a simple mistake here. So, the result of this is that, when you're actually in reverse, you get the wheel spinning in reverse. So, you get this 3 mph forward which is that speed-limited reverse safety feature. Which is great, but if you put if you tap the red button and you put it into forward what happens is you end up going that way and the trike goes in reverse and it can go very fast. So you want to be very careful with this.

So, if you're having that behavior where you're slow going forward but press the red button and you're super fast going backward that's why you just have your wheel on backward. A lot of people in our owner's group, recognize that and try to help people out. This video is going to go one better. So, I'm going to show you how to remedy this. You've already put the wheel on reverse, you need to fix it, right. The number one thing you want to do and by the way, if you've done this, your brake cable is already being impeded by the frame which is a problem, right. So, the number one thing, you want to do is, you want to disconnect these connections. Okay, so motor connection and this one which is called your 3-to-1 cable connection, here for your accessory cable. Those are your 2 electronic connections and then you want to release the quick-release here, which is up for the handlebar. Once you do that, you can actually just loosen that handlebar and then make sure you're turning your fork the right way. Meaning, get that cable out of there. That brake cable right and now your wheel is on forward and your fender is to the back. Our electronic cables are still disconnected and we have this brake cable. By the way, this brake cable is for the front disc brake and should never be impeded. It should always be bowed out, in front here, nice and wide. If you ever zip tie this in a certain way or do whatever, you're causing strain and you may engage your caliper. So, you don't want to do that, so now your wheel is on forward. You want to adjust your handlebar, okay and you can put that, you can always do that again later, but you want to do that with your clamp. Your clamp goes this way, a lot of people, when this is on the ground, you hold this between
your legs, the tire and then you push that clamp in and tighten it. So, your handlebar is nice and straight and aligned with your tire, right. Got your brake cable bowed out, so you've got your motor connection, that's this big one, right. The big motor connection, nothing should wrap around the neck of a frame. You don't want to push on, or strain on there. So, this one's going to be over here which is on my right side. Looking down, got my two arrows there. I'm going to find my arrows here and line that up, push it in very securely. Okay, now you have this other connection which is going to your 3-to-1 cable and you can actually put that right here as well. I think a lot of people, do that on the other side, bring that out on the other side. Look for that little tab inside, be very careful you have a lot of small pins in there and there's a guide, so look for that guide. Look for those arrows and then make sure that is again, no daylight and very snug and that should be it.

So, you've solved the problem, you're not going to go super-fast and reverse and very slow and forward anymore. Your wheel is on correctly, if you're watching this video, you might have had this problem, and somebody gave you this video. I hope it helps.

My name is Jason, with Electric Bike Technologies and I'm going to show you what to do if there's a problem with charging your Liberty Trike lithium-ion battery pack. Now here's what we're addressing, specifically. So, you're going to plug your charger into the wall, what should happen if, your charge is okay is that you should have a blinking green light up here. That is normal okay and this is a charger plugged into a normal outlet, blinking green. It says that on the back, in fact on the label, you can see there's no battery connected, green, white, green that's blinking green. If you're charging, you're getting red and if it's solid green its full, right.

So, a blinking green means all normal. We're going to plug this into our Liberty Trike battery pack which is right here. The plug is under here, that's called an RCA type plug and if you plug that in here like this, you should get if all is good a solid red light and then when it's full it'll go to a solid green light. Now in the case, that you plug this in here and you still see a blinking green light, that's what we're going to address today. If you see a blinking green light, the charger is telling you that it cannot see the battery. So, there's something wrong and it doesn't know the battery is there.

The very first thing, we're going to do in this situation, believe it or not, sometimes this is to perfectly round match to perfectly with the other connector. What we're going to do is make it a little less perfect. We're just going to squeeze a little bit, because maybe it's not making contact after you squeeze it a little bit. You make it a little bit oblong or imperfect, now maybe it's going to grab the side, so we'll plug it back in and sometimes that's going to fix your problem, believe it or not. So, now you go to a solid red. Hey, that worked, that was the solution all right, okay. If that's not the solution, we're going to get a little bit more into this. So, we got our blinking green light, we plug it in. We still got blinking green, we've made it a little bit oblong. We know we're getting a connection it's not working.

The next thing we're going to do and you're not going to void the warranty, if we've suggested this to you, so don't worry about that. The next thing you're going to do, don't be nervous here, close the lid you're going to get a Phillips head screwdriver and you're going to take out the four screws on the end of this pack. Now, if you're really nervous, you don't think you can do this, you're not at all handy, and you're intimidated, get somebody else, this isn't too technical, what we're about to do and if you need a local bike shop or a local Batteries Plus or something and maybe we can help you find one as well. We're going to take out those 4 screws out, we do that you're going to be able to take off the backend, okay this is the charging end of a Liberty Trike battery. All right, so in here you're going to see that these wires are caulked into position and so we want to just feel around, if anything's loose, you're not going to hurt yourself here but if anything was obviously loose. What I'm getting at is though, you plug this in here, it's still blinking green, it's telling you, it can't be seen, maybe it's disconnected inside. So, we just want to make sure everything is firm. It seems like it is in here, the next thing is a fuse.

Here, we have a bladed fuse. You want to pop this cap okay that says 5. This is a 5v bladed fuse, pretty common. You could find these, you can get these from us, if you need to or you can get them at any auto parts store. If something has happened but it's possible that this fuse is bad. So, we're going to want to pull this fuse out, work it out, side to side, pull it out, and take a look at the fuse. Now, I don't see anything broken here, so if you look closely at that and we focus, I don't see anything broken, you can also test this fuse with a Multimeter. Now, if it was broken, I think it would be obvious in most cases you would just, see the little filament done. So, if that's the case, you might need a new fuse and that would explain the problem, okay. If you can't see it and you do want to use a Multimeter, this is something you can get for $10-12 at Home Depot or Amazon. You put this on an upside down horseshoe looking deal, and it should go to zero. If the fuse is good, okay, like that. So, that's a little bit more technical way to check a fuse. If you can't see it, if you're not sure, so this fuse is good. I'm going to put it back in and that should solve the problem. That's about as far as you need to go. Again, it's a pretty common fuse, you can take this to the auto parts store and get it. If something has happened and a fuse is blown but that should correct the problem. You don't have to go too much further on this side of the pack, so you get a blinking green
light even when you're connected to the battery. This is to solve that problem and I hope it helps.

Hi Jason, here from Electric Bike Technologies. I want to talk to you about Liberty Trike and primarily about pedaling. We get this question a lot, "Can I still pedal?" The answer is absolutely Yes! Pedaling is encouraged, pedaling is good for you. So, here's the deal, the Liberty Trike is assisted, and it's throttle only. There's NO pedal assist on the Liberty Trike.

So, the two systems of driving the Liberty Trike, number one would be the throttle and that's the front wheel. You turn that throttle and that front wheel turns, and it will pull you. You'll notice that nothing happened to the rear of the bike, pedals didn't move or anything else. Now for pedaling. When you turn this crank with your foot power, you get that one wheel on the back right wheel turns so you can pedal and propel yourself with the rear wheel just like a regular trike and you can get some exercise, but you can also use that throttle to start to supplement in any variable degree you want while you're pedaling. So, it's both and it's front and rear wheel drive in that way, okay. So, now you know, we want you to pedal, pedaling is encouraged, you can use the throttle anytime and in any ratio between the two drive systems. So, hopefully, that answers your question. If you have any other questions, contact support@libertytrike.com. Thanks!

My name is Jason, from Electric Bike Technologies and this is the Liberty Trike. I want to talk to you about Error 30. If you see an Error 30, flashing on your LCD screen, it's telling you that there's a communication problem. So, number one would be a bent pin. Number two would be a firmware problem and that's something altogether different.

So, if you have an Error 30, the first and foremost thing you're going to want to do is to get down here, to the controller and check for a bent pin. The bent pin is usually going to occur in here for an Error 30 and it's because it's a communication problem between the controller and the LCD display, okay. So, the first thing you're going to check is this connection coming out of the controller, going up this is a 3-to-1, okay. This is your cable here, for 3-to-1, for your component. You want to pull that apart, you want to look inside there and verify that all the pins are straight and that there's no damage male or female side, okay. Then you want to line that up, arrows there push it together, no daylight get that secure.

The second one would be up here. Go to your 3-to-1, up here there may be some spiral wrap you have to take off but find these three up here and go through them. One of the greens is you are LCD, so you're going to want to disconnect same thing inspect, push that together and you'll want to do that for all three, okay. Make sure it's good put it together, so that would be Error 30.

If you still have Error 30 after doing that, you're going to want to contact us. You're going to want to call support and we'll go from there it's probably going to be something else a little bit deeper and we'll have to replace the controller and the LCD, and we'll take care of that under warranty in most cases. So, contact support if you have Error 30, after
checking the pins. Thanks!

Hey Jason, here from Electric Bike Technologies, we're going to talk about the Liberty Trike and Error 25.

Error 25 is a real simple one and I'm going to show you exactly what it is. Error 2 happens when, your electric brake handle (lever), over here, right, is in position and engaged when you turn your system on, it blinks Error 25. To get rid of it, just undo the brake handle, Error 25 is gone. It's that simple, that's Error 25, with the Liberty Trike. Now you know!

Jason here, from Electric Bike Technologies and today I'm going to tell you, in this video about Error 24. So, if you've come to us and you said, "I have Error 24!" This video is going to show you what it is and how to get rid of it.

Error 2 has to do with the front motor, okay and it has to do with a couple of wires in here called Phase Wires and if they ever sure you're going to get an Error 24 or if there's a Hall Effect Sensor probably make it Error 24. Now 9.9 times out of 10, this is the solution. You're going to look on the cable here, you're going to look for any kind of damage. If you don't have damage, you're going to look to this connector. If this connector is not fully seated this connector looks like this inside. There's actually contacts in there. 3 here and then if you look really close, there's 5 on the outside. The 3 in the middle are called Phase and the on the outside are Hall Effect. This has an arrow on it you want to pull that apart and you want to push it together snug the whole way and that's going to solve Error 24, 9 out of 10 times.

Now, I'll show you just for sake of the video will plug this in and it won't be plugged in all the way, and we'll start the (LCD) screen and you're going to see right away Error 24, blinking right there. Now if even if I plug this in well doing this video just like that the Error 24, will stop, okay. So, that's what it's going to be a lot of times if you're transporting or something like that, this can turn or whatever it's pulled and it's zip tied, it can pull it away. So, it's either going to be that or it's going to be some kind of damage here, so you want to inspect for that.

So, that's Error 24, it's just about getting this snug if it still continues after that, we can talk about it maybe it's something a little deeper but 9.9 times out of 10, that's an Error 2 and that's it.

Okay, so servicing your Liberty Trike is pretty easy. The system is modular meaning it's composed of a couple, separate pieces and they can be swapped out. So, by a process of elimination, you can do this at home, you can swap out some parts that will be provided to you and you can diagnose if anything is actually failed in the system.

So, if that process is taking place, we're going to send you what we call a Rescue Pack. Now, this is going to come, in a padded priority mail envelope, from the United States Postal Service. Inside will be a return label for the suspect part and all of the new parts, that we send you, to try now.

This is very simple, and this is a simple process. So, don't be nervous about this. You don't need any kind of tools you don't need any kind of electrical engineering degree to make this happen. So, we've gone through the connections, your Liberty Trike is not responsive and now we're going to find out why through a process of elimination with the parts. The parts that we're going to send you are starting from the back of the bike, here we have the battery wire harness. That's this guy, so if the battery wire harness is faulty, you'll be able to replace it with this one. Plug it in, plug it into the battery and there you go. If that's it, that solves it, you try to turn it on, it works then that was your part. The next part moving forward would be the controller and none of this stuff, you have to put on. The bike you don't have to install it, you don't need to get your wrenches out, you can do this off the bike so the controller would plug into the battery, going back here in the battery wire harness and then up in the front, you have the accessory to the 3-to-1 cable. You would unplug that and plug that right in and then you can plug this into the motor. You could try it and if it works that would be your controller and you would send
the rest of the stuff. You would keep this guy, send this one back to us with the rest of the parts that we gave you in the rescue pack.

Next if it wasn't the controller, you could try the 3-to-1 cable, very easy to swap out. You've got your three connections up front, one back to
your present controller, swap that out, try it. If that works, you're good to go, pretty easy and finally we come up to the front of the bike. We've got 3 components starting with the LCD and again you don't have to install it, you could try this off the trike before you had to do anything to put it on the handlebar to plug that into the 3-to-1 and then go ahead and turn it on. If that was your problem, there you go, it's fixed.

Throttles and the brakes not very often going to be anything to do with the e-brake but again you could try it swap it out and the throttle of course, just unplug it, try the new throttle, and maybe that would be the solution whatever it is whatever you find that's an easy process of elimination and that's how it's done.

When you have a direct-to-consumer model, we don't like, I said you don't need an engineering degree, you don't even need any tools it's just following that process of elimination to find out what the culprit part is and if you find it you get to keep that part, you're going to send the rest back to us in this padded envelope
and that's it.

That's how easy it is to diagnose any problem with the Liberty Trike, in the field, in your home. We hope that's very helpful and if that doesn't get you where you need to be, contact support and we will take care of you, thanks!

Hi, my name is Jason from Electric Bike Technologies and today, I'm going to go over the Liberty Trike and show you if your trike is unresponsive for any reason, it won't turn on. These are the steps you're going to do initially, to make sure that everything is connected correctly.

So, we're going to roll through this here. We're going to start with the battery in the back. The battery is under the battery box, down here, you have the key here. You want to make sure the key is in the on position. This is the on position at 9 o'clock – 3 o'clock. The key controls a tumbler under the trike. Under here, tumbler is a little pin that goes through the plate there, that's fix to the frame. Now, as I turn this key, if the battery is in the correct position, the tumbler can go through the hole. There's a very tight tolerance there, you want to make sure, your key is in this 9 o'clock – 3 o'clock, parallel to the ground position. If it's not, jiggle the battery back and forth make sure you get it to where you can get that tumbler through. Now the key is in the on position that's number one.

Number two, working our way to the front of the bike, number two is this connection, this is a battery wire harness. It connects your battery to your controller, it has 3-prongs, they're kind of like a computer plug. Facing the battery, unplug that. Plug it in. 100% make sure it's snug, you're good to go here. Follow that down to the middle of the trike. The middle of the trike, we have the other end of the battery wire harness. This right here, you're going to pull this apart okay, you want to pull, you don't want to twist any of these connections. This one here, you have a 2-prong female, 2-prong male okay. There's an arrow on there and you want to line that up. You can take a close look, make sure you have good lighting, put that back together and you want to plug that in 100%. Push as hard, as you can, okay. Make sure that that is seated properly.

Coming up a little further, that goes into our controller, that's this black box, that says Liberty Trike on it. This controller has 2 wires coming out of the front, on the left-hand side of the trike, you have this one. This is the accessory cable, and this runs into a 3-to-1 cable. We call it a 3-to-1 because you have one connector and up here, these are called Dongles, one, two, and three. One of them is for the display, one for the brake, and one for the throttle. So, we're going to check this next, this connection, right here, at the one it's got arrows on it. We're going to put our fingers together and pull straight out, that's what it looks like inside, okay. You want to make sure all the pins are straight, nothing's bent and then you want to look at those arrows again. Very carefully line that back up and push. You don't want any daylight, in there. Come up from that and those are 3 dongles, we have our LCD. Our throttle or e-brake, one by one we're going to pull them apart. Two of them happen to be green, again pull apart, straight, no twisting, okay. So, that's what it looks like for one of the greens. Make sure the pins are good. Line it back up, push it back in, no daylight.

Next one, this one also happens to be green, that's okay, they are male and female. You cannot do this, the wrong way. Check the pins, back in, no daylight. The next one red happens to be the e-brake, 2 pins, okay. There is a guide there, put that pin in, very carefully and push together, no daylight. There's a wire wrap around here, it's been removed on this one. You may have to remove it, you just start like this, okay. If you're not seeing these connectors, just do this. You can make it pretty afterward, okay. The important part is, we want to find that disconnection and get this strike back on, then you can put this back on here, okay. So, after that, as much as you have to go through, if you're coming to us and you're saying my trikes not turning on, you should be able to hit the "i" button and get the LCD on that's it for this video.

This video is to show you if your trike is unresponsive. What to go through, what connections and where the points are, that you have to make, a connection to make. Sure, the trike will turn on, if your trike doesn't turn on after this point, you're going to get in touch with us and we'll go from there, thanks!

The Liberty Trike LCD has a function for quickly switching between 36 volts and 48 volts. You'll only ever be using a 36 volt battery. So, anyway, to do that press and hold all three; plus, minus and "i" with the LCD screen off. There we go, and now we're set on 48 volt, which is wrong. So, we turn the screen off and we can, set it again to 36 volt.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey guys, Jason here from Electric Bike Technologies, and now I'm going to show you a new unique situation, if you have two Liberty Trikes. If you're an owner of two Liberty Trikes and something goes wrong, with either one of them it's important to remember that you actually have a second set of parts which you can use to help eliminate and find out by a process of elimination. If there's actually a problem with one of the components, so the easiest way to do this, is all right.

I'll start with the most obvious, you got a couple of components on your Liberty Trike starting from the back. You've got the battery, next to the battery, you've got a battery wire harness that runs down, under here. You already know this comes apart. So, the next component would be the controller, which is the black box here, and then from the controller, you have two wires going out. One of them goes over to the motor, on this side, back here and the other one, over here on the left, goes up to your components in the front. Your components in the front, we call this a 3-to-1 by the way you have a wire here, right. So, we've got a battery wire harness, controller, 3-to-1, okay. The 3-to-1 unplugs from the controller, here with this plug, you pull it right out, and then it's got three connectors, right here and again you pull, you don't twist. Each one of these now, one of these connectors goes up to your LCD. In the middle, right of your display panel, one of them goes up to your electronic cutoff brake. Your brake handle and then the other one. The last one, goes over here, on the right of the handlebar to your throttle. So, each one of these, so again we've got two Liberty Trikes, so you essentially have two sets of parts. So, the thing is you're going to borrow the parts from the trike that's working and you're going to use those to flush out and throw a process of elimination to find the culprit, the problem or disconnection that you have in a trike that may not be operable or giving you problems.

The battery, I think is the most obvious. You can clearly just take a battery out, and swap it over, the battery wire harness here, in the back. If you need that, you would actually have to cut these 2 zip ties and bring them from one trike to the other. Obvious right you're swapping the battery or you're swapping that cable. Now the controller is on the trike and it's here. It's screwed into the controller; it's got the clamps on there and you would need a hex key type wrench to get it off. If you wanted to physically take it off but I don't think you have to do that, as long as you put the trikes next to one another. You can actually do some testing, so both of these trikes are on and so what I'm going to test, I'm going to go right to this 3-to-1 cable and then the components up top okay because that's most likely where a culprit could be and this is going to be the part, where we really want to make this video. To explain so, let's just say for example that this is not working for some reason the blue trike here is not working now what I'd like to do is, let's say I want to test the controller. First well I have these together the trike's not working well. Let me clarify that, well let me verify that the battery, the battery wire harness, and the controller are working. All I have to do in this situation is borrow the controller here from the blue trike and I want to test it if everything's working from the controller back to the battery. So, I would unplug the 3-to-1 here and then I would, also I could unplug the motor if I wanted to. So, I'll do it over here as well and I'll unplug that 3-to-1 right. So, both of these are unplugged now, I can plug either one in now. Let's just say for example your LCD hasn't been coming on or something else and I think there's a problem with the LCD or the throttle or whatever it was giving you a problem. I can bring this over and now I can plug in the one I know is working over here and I line up those arrows, very carefully, fully insert that and now the trike that's controlling it and the components that are controlling it, are over here. So, I can press the button to see if it comes on and it did and then, I can pick the wheel off the ground, right. Which is very interesting, I can pick the wheel off the ground but in this case, I actually have to transfer the wheel as well. So, I'll unplug this one. So, now I'm really testing the controller, the battery and everything from here back on the blue trike, right. The blue trike wasn't working. I want to test everything from there back. I'm using the red trike and I'm borrowing the red trike's front end components and if I pick this up off the ground, the red wheel spins. So, in this case, the red trike is the trike that's working has just verified for me that the controller, the battery, wire harness and the battery on the blue trike aren't the culprit. So, I can unplug those again and now if I want to test everything else, in the front of the blue trike. If I want to test the LCD and the components, okay. So, now we verified using the red trike using the components on the front end. Basically, the whole handlebar, we have verified, that the controller on the blue trike battery wire harness and the battery in the back are all good now. We want to test the front right, which are the components up top, which is the brake handle, the display in the middle and then the throttle right. They're all connected to what's called the 3-to-1. Now the simple test to see if this is going to work with a set of components that we know is going to work is just to take we're borrowing the controller and the back end here. So, we line these up, we find our arrows, so we don't bend any pins, we push it in all the way. We will then use the motor on the red trike as well but we're going to power the motor on the red trike and we're going to power the red trike from this set of components over here to verify. So, I'm going to hit the "i" button here. We've got everything going and what we're doing is we're just borrowing these components to power this trike and so what I'm going to do is, I'm going to pick this trike off the ground because it will go if it's working and there you go and now, I've tested. So, now I know the components in the front are working. Now if they, if that didn't work for some reason, my next logical step would be to piece by piece, check each one of the components. Now we have again verified this, we don't have to worry about anything else now we're working up here if one of these three didn't work we'd be doing this with a 3-to-1. The 3-to-1, I can disconnect pull, pull, pull, right and so maybe there's a short here, we don't know but through process of elimination now, we know that the red one works. We can borrow it and in fact in this case we can just put it down and we can pull these three off right and we can plug it in over here and you can do this with any component as long as you can get them physically next to each other, right because you have the second Liberty Trike. So, I will line this up borrow the 3-to-1 from the red trike which is my working trike. You can only do this one way so there's only one male per and they are also different colors, so the LCD and the throttle are both green but the LCD in the throttle also is male and female you cannot get this wrong. You just can't and then the red is for stop and that's the brake, so I’ve borrowed the 3-to-1 right that component working away from the back to the front is the next logical component which may have caused a problem here and then what I do is, I just try it and when I turn it on I see that I got the screen. I know that's good and if I pick that off the ground and I go and I cut off with the break I know it's good so if it wasn't working and I borrowed the 3-to-1 from the working trike moved it over to here, then I may want to replace my 3-to-1 and that may be the culprit right. Next would be these three components, each one of these and again you have the red and the two greens. One of them is the brake that's the red and then one of the greens is going to be the LCD and one of the greens is going to be the throttle but again even from here you could test each one of these components by taking a good working 3-to-1 from the other trike that you have and simply going down to that controller, using the good 3-to-1 or using each one of these components to a good 3-to-1 either way. Same thing with the motor just to make this easy here, same thing with the motor. You could borrow, you could just swap between these two. Be very careful and cognizant of the wheel, that's going to spin. When you do something like this obviously you just want to think about what you're doing and make sure that the wheel that's going to spin, you want to lift that off the ground momentarily. When you're doing your testing but either way you can see you can work your way around. You have all your components, you have a good set, theoretically if you wanted to test the whole handlebar, you could just take it off with the quick-release. Bring the whole handlebar over and connect that but as you can see from this video if you have two Liberty Trikes that's really the point. You already have a set of working parts to work through a process of elimination very carefully and go through each one of those parts and just to wrap up. I'm going to go through it one more time.

Here again just so we're clear on every bit of this process from front to back of what those parts are and what you are testing for, and I hope this makes sense. If it doesn’t, you're going to call our service department but we're making this video to really kind of give you a visual and explain how you can use one set of parts in one trike if you happen to own two of the Liberty Trikes and go through this testing.

So as a real quick overview, I'll just run through those parts again in the system and from front to back. This is always what you're going to check if something is malfunctioning, or anything is giving you trouble. You have the battery in the back, you can swap your battery packs you have. Your battery wire harness is what this is called it runs down here and it separates here you have your controller which has a cable back to your battery wire harness and then it's got two cables up front one goes to the motor, and one goes to the 3-to-1. This piece of cable right here that connects to your controller, this is your 3-to-1. We call it a 3-to-1 because it's one dongle to what's called 3 dongles and then those 3 dongles are up to the front of your command center and that's your brake with your cutoff. That's your LCD is in the middle and that's your throttle over here and of course, you have your engine or your motor up front and that's the connector here on the fork. You always want to make sure that's good again, if you have two, that you can very easily roll up to each other and test your motors as well. So that's how you do that diagnosis by the way, this is the same thing if you were talking to service, and we were going to send you something called a Rescue Pack. In the Rescue Pack, is a set of components, it would basically be everything from the battery, to this cable, the controller, the 3-to-1 and each one of these components will be in a Rescue Pack, for the same exact process of elimination, type diagnosis of a Liberty Trike and I hope that makes sense to you and I hope it's helpful, thanks.

Alright guys, we are here with a Liberty Trike's front (wheel) motor and fork. For our purpose today we have it off the trike and we're going to be showing you how to remove the (front) wheel and reinstall the wheel. For anybody that might have to change their tire or change the rotors.

Brian is going to show it through this for us today. So, a couple tools you are going to need. You're going to want a 21 mm socket wrench, it's kind of hard to see, it's 21 mm, a 4 mm Allen wrench, a 5 mm Allen wrench and then we've got retaining clips in here. We're going to want to get out, so you're going to want a Flathead or some type of pick, to pick them out and we'll show you that when we get there.

So, first just pull off your rubber caps and Brian is removing the caliper, you are going to want the caliper out of the way, it's going to be the easiest way, to get the wheel off, okay. So, you see, he just left the bottom bolt on, that way it just hangs down. The rotor is clear and we can loosen the axle nuts and pull the rest out.

So, once the nuts are off, you're going to see in here. We have this flat washer and Brian is going to pry it off because sometimes it gets a little stuck on there, okay. So, once the flat washer is off, that's going to show us our "C" lock right here. So, that's going to be seated down in the channel of the fork, so that's where you're going to need your flat head or your pick and you'll see here Brian's going to pop it out, slide it off. Now on this side, the washer again just slides that right off. Now we want to get this guy here off this is our we call that a "Mickey Mouse," it's just an extra precaution to hold the wheel in place. That's where you're going to need the 4 mm Allen for and then behind that is our "C" lock and again just pop that out. Okay, with all that done now we're able to pull the wheel off the fork. So, now you can do whatever you need to do, change your tire, change your rotor, change your pads, and your caliper, if you need.

So, at this point now, we're going to show you just how to reinstall it. Drop it right back into the dropouts. Make sure your inner washer is in place and your other inner washer is in place and you're going to want to make sure that the motor cable is pointing to the back. So that would be the long end of your fender. Reinstall the "C" locks and they just slide on then after on this side. We will reinstall our "Mickey Mouse" then we'll put on our flat washer and the nut same thing on the outside.

Okay now, we're going to at this point right here all you're going to do is you're going to crank these down to nice and snug. You want to know you don't have to go crazy, but you do want to be pretty snug we're going to skip that because we're going to move on to the last part here and that's just reinstalling the rotor. So, now once you have these cranked down you put on your rubber caps.

Put your caliper back in place and you may at this point have to do a small adjustment to your caliper. So, that your rotor doesn't rub. It should for the most part when you put it all back together, rub freely if it rubs freely, to begin with. Ours is a new setup here, so we have rub. So, at this point, we would have to do our adjustment and that would be this screw right here and this screw down here and then we can manipulate the caliper, to free it up off of the rotor. But in any case, that is how we replace the motor on a Liberty Trike front end.

Hi, if you are watching this video, you must be on the replacement battery pack page at LibertyTrike.com. We want to explain what you are buying and what you choose from the drop down above for the battery box.

Now, if you are buying a battery here and it's a secondary battery and it's a 36v 8Ah it's a relatively new trike, you don't need to worry about this battery box. Here's why there's a drop down and the battery box and how to change that out.

This is the 36v 8Ah battery that is here on this product page. Previously, we sold a battery, that was 36v 10Ah. Important because that was an inch or so longer. Now if you were to buy this battery, and not got the replacement battery box for your 36v 10Ah, that's longer and you put this battery into your setup, the battery is going to be lost inside, by about an inch, it's shorter than the original battery box for the one that you have. So, the one that you have might be this one. This one is about 10 inches. The smaller one, for the 8Ah, is 8.5 inches, that's how you can tell the difference.

So, what you are going to be doing is removing the bigger one that you
have for your 36v 10Ah and you are going to be replacing that with the
shorter box, right here, which is for the 36v 8Ah, so that the battery fits properly. This is very easy to do it's not very mechanical, you are going to use a 10mm socket wrench, like this and it would be the four outer here, okay and there's bolts underneath and Phillip's head on top. You can hold these with finger pressure and get those loose, they are serrated, so they stay in place, very easy to do. One, two, three, four, you can remove the box. Once you get the box removed, simple Phillip's head screwdriver, one, two, three, four of these for the plate.

The plate you are going to install is going to come with the battery, you are buying and it's going to be on here. You simply take the plate off, put it in with those 4 bolts here, and then replace it with the new, shorter battery box that you are going to get, okay.

So, only choose the battery box, if you are coming from a 36v 10Ah, that longer 10.5 inch outer battery box. And you are getting the replacement here, the current one, the Liberty Trike battery, the 36v 8Ah. That's when you order the battery box, if you go from a 10Ah to the smaller size 8Ah. Otherwise, if you are just buying an extra battery, you don't need that option. I hope that's clear, any questions, contact us, thanks.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey guys Jason here from Electric Bike Tech, this is another Helpful Short. This has to do with what we call Liberty trike "Shimmy" and the hinge and how to get that together.

I want to first and foremost bring you right into this hinge and tell you that this is already assembled obviously but the key here is that, you need to undo this quick-release and you can shimmy that up and down like that and the hinge should come apart like this into this semi-folded position, right. The point is just to relieve pressure on this side of the hinge. So, the real issue for a lot of people is the pin right how do you get that in. Now let me just tell you that the tolerance here and why it has to be so tight is because if it wasn't and if it was a little bit looser if we made the hole bigger then you know you might have that during your riding we can't have that, right.

So, let's get on to the tip, of how do you do this properly. So, you unfold that okay, get it in here so you've taken the pressure away from that side of the hinge. Now to get the pin out, what I suggest is you put your hand under here and you start to put pressure up and almost shimmy up and down, just your palm under there and then put some upward pressure on that pin and with that, you should be able to take it out. Now let's be honest, the hard part after you take this apart is getting this lined up, okay. The top hole here to get it back in, so let's say you've got that lined up, right got a good eye on that you worked that in get that through that first hole that pin, right. See and then you can kind of tap it down now, I got to get the bottom, right and that's the hard part. Now if you had this connected and you didn't have this you know in a semi-folded situation with this side you would never be able to do that so again we're going to do that shimmy. I'm going to get that underneath and you can see the trike kind of go up and down the two pieces and I'm going to put downward pressure and push down and that's going to be able to go into that bottom hole. So, all right you're going to want to do that shimmy. Hand under here, up and down allow you to pull up. Handle there up and down is going to allow you to find that bottom and push down and it really shouldn't be that difficult. If anything is too difficult and you think you need to hit it with a hammer or anything else take a step back, and do the shimmy. Try to do it the right way, unless the steel is bent which is almost impossible you shouldn't really have a problem and that's your that's your tip here for your helpful short. So, we can go ahead and put this back on like that if you're having any problem there, there's a nut here you can adjust it to make even that but these go out pretty well tolerance and in a good position and certainly, you want this to be tight enough. When you turn this and put that into position, that is a fully assembled, lock properly hinge. You never want to ride your Liberty Trike unless that is all together that way. I hope it's been helpful. Any questions let us know.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey guys, Jason here from Electric Bike Tech, here with Liberty Trike. This is one of our Helpful Shorts and we're going to show you the clamps and how do you negotiate one of the quick-release clamps on a Liberty Trike. You have two quick-release clamps on the Liberty Trike. Number one is in the front, up by the neck (stem) of the bike and the steering column and that's what holds your handlebars in place. This is where you're going to use, you know, use this to line up your handlebars in your wheel make sure that is aligned. So, I want to talk about the clamp specifically, right.

So, when this comes to you, here's how it works. You're going to use your thumb, you're going to open this clamp up, right. So, when it's fully opened, it's not putting any pressure and you can see the handlebar wants to fall, there's no pressure there. The mechanism here, to adjust this, is this little wheel and you can do this by hand if you've got some strong hands. If you can't do it by hand, this kind of tool works really well. I like that because it has that round surface, you can hold that and when you're holding that, you don't necessarily need to turn the wrench part, you just need a good grip on that little piece. You can turn this (lever), okay, to tighten or loosen and you can see that little screw go in and that's really tightening or loosening and what that does is, that's going to make it either easier or harder to close this one (the lever). Now the more that this is tightened and the more bolt you can see coming through out there, the harder it's going to be and the harder it's going to hold and you may need to tighten that up depending especially on the seat. We'll talk about that in a second but once that's done, if it's too hard on your hand or if you know you need it tight but you got to get some pressure here get a towel or something like that and put it on and push it as much as you can and you do want this front one (lever) to kind of wrap around in the front on that bar.

That's the proper way to do that front clamp, okay. If you can't get it done, if you can't get it tight, loosen this, okay take this and get it the right direction and loosen it. That will then become much easier, okay. So, that's how that works. Let's move to the back one, this one is going to be a lot tighter on arrival because obviously it's you know clamping down a seat and trying to hold a human above it, right. It's a little bit different on the mechanism, it is serrated there. So, the same kind of adjustable wrench would work and you can get it in there to hold it. If you need to and again, use the back wheel for leverage. You can actually turn that to loosen it or turn it this way to do it and you can see the seat go down as I remove pressure. The same kind of way you want to tighten that up, this could be hard, if you really need to get this and it's moving on you. You really want to adjust this wheel a little bit and tighten that. The whole connection and then get that get that towel put it on here, put a lot of pressure and get that into place and that should give you a really snug fit and then that should not move being aligned being tight.

So, these are how the clamps work. I hope it's been helpful and giving you some insight and made it a little bit easier to adjust your Liberty Trike, thanks!

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Jason here, from Electric Bike Tech, with Liberty Trike for a Helpful Shorts. Really quickly, this is about the caliper brake in the front and it's about this cable right here. All right,

when this cable is assembled properly, it should really be bowed out in front, even if you have a basket, you kind of want to find a way to negotiate this where there's just no pressure on it. Any pressure, kinking even if you zip tie this, somewhere and you think that's going to be a good thing. Any pressure is going to close the mechanism, here, almost as if, up here, you were grabbing this (brake lever) and applying pressure to the cable inside and therefore actuating this caliper which grips this which called a rotor. And so, we've seen people, during assembly, if you're not careful, this can actually, get wrapped around here. You know, you've taken the handlebar off and it's kind of gotten wrapped up or whatever and next thing you know they're wondering why there's a noise here or why their trike won't go, and it has to do with, this always has to be bowed out in front. You have to have no pressure on it, if it gets wrapped up in here something's wrong and you want to unfurl that, get it back to this position, so you're not biting on the rotor. I hope it's helpful.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hey guys, Jason here, Electric Bike Technologies, here with Liberty Trike and another one of our Helpful Shorts. We are going to show you how to use the key, disconnect your battery, remove your battery, and put your battery back in.

Let's get into it, alright. Down here we have your battery pack. It's going to arrive to you. It's going to be inserted into your Liberty Trike and locked into place. Here you have the plug, which goes into the face, into the Liberty Trike battery and that just pushes in and pulls out. Okay, very easy. Over here, on the left, we have a set of keys, they are actually folding keys, alright. We are in the "On" position, right now, but to get the battery out, we are going to do a couple of things.

Number one, we are going to disconnect it from the controller there. Number two, we're going to turn it into the "Off" position. Now you can take your key off, out at that time as well, but if you want to get, the tumbler pin, from underneath and I'll explain that in a minute there's a tumbler pin that goes into a plate, that's stationary and fixed I'm going to push the key, literally push it in, and see that goes into the tumbler, push it in and then turn, even more counterclockwise. That's going to be the final off, in unlock position.

You can take the key out. You got to take the key out to slide the battery out. I'm going to put the keys here. Now to get the battery out, right, I'll show you how this works in a second. But you are going to lift that handle and you should be able to then pull that battery right out, see how easy that came out.

Now, I want to show you how this works. Underneath there are two rails as part of the case. This corresponding, rails here are part of the rack fixed to the frame, not going anywhere. But what's under this battery needs to go into this groove here, okay.

So, now I'm going to take this battery and put it back in. By the way, now that I have the battery out, you can see that tumbler which goes through a hole in this plate, way down here and that's what locks it into place. That's how it works. Alright, I'm going to do this, I'm going to line up these grooves underneath, to this plate. So, I got to do this, I'm going to get that lined up and move it up and down, you'll be able to feel it and I felt it locked in. I'm going to push this gently inside and put that handle down. Now the battery will naturally, stop because there's a little screw here and that's a guide and there you can see where the tumbler goes into that hole in the plate, right. Starting to make sense, good! So, you push that, don't push too hard, that little screw is going to stop this in the right place, so that the tumbler is aligned with the hole in the plate. You are going to take your key go in, and go backward, you are going to go clockwise. So, you are going to go clockwise, I already feel that the tumbler is there, it's gone through underneath. Can we even see that underneath there, watch that? See that? See how that tumbler pokes through that's what putting your battery into place, locking it into position, and then this final parallel with the ground here like 3 o'clock – 9 o'clock that's going to be the on position.

Now that's all, take the key. That's on, you can't take the key and then you are going to plug this in, make sure this is secure so, you have a good connection. And that is how you get your Liberty Trike battery, disconnected out and in, and how everything works. I hope it's helpful.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

Hi guys, Jason here from Electric Bike Tech, with Liberty Trike, for another Helpful Bike Short. Here's what I want to show you today, this is called False Stalling.

This happens very specifically, if you are riding and you were going forward and you can see the wheel moving, and you got that throttle working, and everything seems normal and by accident. You know your traveling along forward and you
hit that (red) button, that's your reverse button and your throttle becomes, unresponsive. Your wheel stops to a full stop and then, if you turn it, you are actually going to be in reverse.

Now this is a safety feature, there's nothing wrong, this is a safety feature. You cannot throw something is reverse, when you have a lot of momentum going forward. So, the thing to do, if that happens, is simply pop that (red) button back up, so you are in the forward mode, okay and then turn that throttle and that should work.

Now again, anytime you hit this (red button) by accident, it going to seem like stall, it's not stalling, just a safety feature. When it comes to a full stop, it will then go in the direction, that it as should as per forward/reverse button Again, pop it out to forward and go. That's false stalling, there's really nothing wrong. Anything else, let us know but that's how that function works. I hope that's helpful.

[Liberty Trike Theme Music]

How's it going? Jason here Electric Bike Tech, here with Liberty Trike for another Helpful Short. If your problem is that, you're riding along, and you hit some rough terrain or you hit a bump or anything like that and you have a power shutdown. This is what, we want to check first and it's really simple. It's just loose connection and kind of common sense.

We're going to tell you exactly where to check, come on in. There's one connection back here and that's to the battery face of Liberty Trike, right here. Let's just say, let's just say, that this was not secure. You might get a little bit of a connection. You hit a bump in the road, and it jiggles, and it moves. So, number one to check, take a look at that make sure everything's cool. Push that in, all the way. Give it a shot maybe, that fixes your problem. Second one is the other place where you can get power and that's down here, (for come over the top) that's obviously your battery to controller, right. Back to battery up to controller and if this connection again, is not super secure, like this and maybe you hit something and it's jiggling. If you've got a jiggling problem, powering off, come down here check that. Make sure it's good and clean go ahead and push that all the way in see if that solves your problem.

Anything else, if you've got a trike that is stalling and actually powering down and turning off that LCD and the whole system. Then, we can look for something deeper, maybe the battery needs to be charged, maybe that's at its end of life or there's some other problem, but those two main problems of a jiggly disconnection, something like that, when you're hitting bump nine times out of ten, that's where you want to go. I hope it's been helpful, if it doesn't help you out, give us a call.